Banff!

From Kimberley we continued cycling north-east, and got our first views of the Rocky Mountains. We stayed in Skookinchuck campground and bought a can of chilliconcarne from the tiny convenience store. Mixed with spaghetti it tasted surprisingly good!

The next day we headed towards Radium Hot Springs. We met a Japanese cyclist heading in the opposite direction. His yellow ortlieb bag was patched with duct tape - "a squirrel got into it. So after that I slept with my bags inside my tent - and woke up one morning with a bear walking around my tent! I yelled "help me!" and started clapping..." It was early morning and all the caravaners were fast asleep; no-one came.... The bear got a fright and scratched his tent before leaving.... We were able to pass on the advice we had been given by other cyclists - to put all food bags in the back of the bear-proof rubbish boxes. We also asked if he knew about Warm Showers; he said "oh, I just wash in the river". He was travelling very budget; sleeping in rest areas under the 'no camping' signs "I go to bed when it is dark and leave early". Neither of us was tempted to try to copy him; we like our hot showers too much!

We arrived in Radium Hot Springs just before 5pm. The sun was still fairly high in the sky so we decided to push on a further 26km to a campsite in the National Park; up over a pass. I was initially keen to try the Hot Springs; until I realised it was just a commercial swimming complex swarming with people. I didn't feel in the mood to wander around with my bikini, white torso, brown arms and ridiculous tan lines. All I wanted was a shower....

We entered the Kootenay National Park through the cool Sinclairs Canyon - and had to purchase a pass at a toll gate. $20 for every day we would be in the Park! And the Park is huge; encompassing Banff and Jasper - so we would need at least a week. I got the annual pass and am hoping to sell it on to some other hapless cyclist at the other end....

The ride up over the pass was fine; quite scenic. Jimmy saw a little black bear cub. On the other side of the pass we got the full view of the Rockies - and with the late afternoon sun it looked fantastic. The road was quiet; it was just a dream. We finally arrived at the Park campground - pretty setting but basic with no showers.

The next morning we woke up to drizzle. We had a slow breakfast, hoping the rain would stop and the sky would clear. It didn't.

The ride to Banff (110km) was in cold rain most of the way; we stopped at a campsite for a cookup - a random assortment of couscous and pea soup - which warmed us up very nicely. We flew down the second pass; I had gloves on but Jimmy didn't and by the bottom he could barely move his fingers. We arrived in Banff, the pinnicle of our trip, cold, tired, hungry, wet. The forecast was for more rain so we checked into a hostel. The hostel reception guy was Australian. Jimmy asked if there was a place we could put our bikes; the hostel guy thought for a moment and said "tell you what, I'll give you a private room for the cost of 2 dorm beds and you can put your bikes in your room." We found our room and it was like Heaven - 2 huge beds, pillows(Jimmy is travelling without one; he even almost bought a pillow in one of the outdoor stores; I told him it was a silly idea - who wastes precious space on a pillow?), and room for the bikes. I felt a little bad spreading my wet tent around the room to dry.....
I had the best ever sleep in the real bed (I love my Big Agnes sleeping mat, but nothing will ever compare with 20cm of REAL mattress...and real sheets... and 4 solid walls and a roof and carpet.....)

After a lovely breakfast of bagels and cream cheese ( I was so hungry I couldn't wait to have mine toasted); we wandered around chilly Banff, but at least the sun is out! Now off for more retail therapy and lunch..... (Jimmy says it seems all we do is eat)